Wait, this is Tuscany?
Our Slow Family Road Trip to Costa degli Etruschi
When people think of Tuscany, they usually picture rolling hills, cypress-lined avenues, and Renaissance architecture. But our Tuscan moment started differently: with sand between our toes, the sound of gentle waves, and a toddler happily collecting things from the beach that absolutely did not need to come home with us.
The Costa degli Etruschi is where the Tuscany you came for meets the sea you didn't expect — peaceful, wonderfully unpretentious, and surprisingly easy to explore with little kids.
Finally, Italy…
After hours on the road from Germany, through Switzerland, we finally crossed into Italy. The moment we reached the coast, everything seemed to slow down. We arrived in the off-season, the sky was slightly overcast, and the beach was practically ours. No sightseeing schedule, no rushing from one famous spot to the next — just the first of many good coffees, and that instant feeling of we could stay here for a while.
Where we stayed
“We would never go on holiday to a campsite like that.” That was us two years ago, back when we didn't have a child. Fast forward to today, and we ended up booking hu Park Albatros Village — and honestly, it turned out to be a surprisingly good fit for us.
During the off-season, we paid just €41 per night for a family bungalow, and the campsite was wonderfully quiet. For what we got, it felt like a steal.
Surrounded by old pine trees and plenty of shade, it had everything we suddenly cared about:
Pool? Yes.
Beach? Close by.
Playground? Climbing park? On-site supermarket? Indoor pool for rainy days?
Yes, yes, and yes.
Parents will know exactly why these suddenly become the ultimate holiday features.
If you prefer something quieter and more secluded, there are also lovely agriturismos and holiday apartments around Bibbona, tucked into the countryside between vineyards, olive groves, and the coast.
Think slow breakfasts, cicadas in the background, and nowhere you urgently need to be.
We've tried both options and can warmly recommend either.
Beaches & Pines
The coastline between Marina di Bibbona and Baratti was made for slow family days, and you really can't go wrong here.
If you prefer beach clubs (*bagnos*) with nearby cafés and amenities, head to Marina di Bibbona. At Bagno Venere, you can sit back with a drink while the kids build sandcastles right in front of you.
Our personal favourite, however, was Spiaggia di Rimigliano — wild, spacious, and backed by a dense pine forest.
And when you're ready for a little break and a drink, head to Lago Verde: a beautifully situated bar tucked right into the pine trees, with relaxed reggae music playing in the background.
The Places We Loved Most
Campiglia Marittima
This was our absolute favourite: a medieval hilltop village with cool stone alleys, laundry hanging overhead, and beautiful views.
It’s an authentic, lived-in place where locals gather on the piazza in the morning, swallows chirp overhead, and the occasional Piaggio buzzes through the narrow streets.
Sitting there in peace, enjoying a coffee — this is the kind of Tuscany we loved.
San Vincenzo
For a completely different mood, San Vincenzo is perfect for an easy afternoon. A seaside promenade, gelato in hand, a little window shopping, and plenty of space to walk without turning it into a whole activity.
Sometimes you don't need a detailed itinerary. Sometimes you just need gelato and a playground.
Bolgheri & Bibbona
Yes, Bolgheri has the famous cypress-lined avenue, and yes, you'll probably want to take the photo. But step away from the main tourist spot and the atmosphere becomes much quieter.
The same goes for Bibbona, where the surrounding countryside delivers those classic Tuscan views: gently rolling hills, iconic cypresses, and pastel-toned sunsets.
Local Souvenir & Shopping Tips
Things we buy every single time we visit — because the quality is amazing and the prices are so much better than back home:
- Olive Oil: Buy directly from Frantoio "Il Cavallino".
- Local Coffee Beans: Pick up freshly roasted coffee at King Caffè in Castagneto Carducci.
Imagine This
You wake up with the sun. It's still pleasantly cool outside, so you make your way to Celli in La California for a very good cappuccino (yes, they do plant-based milk too).
It's the kind of place where locals stand at the bar, conversations happen around you, and your little one gets a warm smile from practically everyone. And the prices are low enough that you can order an extra cornetto — or two — just to try all the different fillings.
Then, head to the beach for a slow morning by the sea, or take a walk through the pine forest of Marina di Bibbona, where the shade and scent of pine trees make the perfect escape from the midday sun.
When lunchtime rolls around, pick up a picnic basket from Azienda Agricola L'Orto al Mare and find a shady spot to enjoy some fresh local produce while the kids have plenty of space to run around.
Or, if you're in the mood for a proper Italian lunch, find a little local spot and order some pasta — but don't eat too late! Remember the Italian rhythm: kitchens often close in the afternoon and reopen for dinner later in the evening.
After lunch, head inland for a stroll through one of the many charming mountain villages nearby. Wander through quiet stone streets, stop for a gelato, and let the afternoon unfold without much of a plan.
And then, as the sun starts to sink:
Golden hour. Back to the sea with a takeaway pizza or a spot at the Wild Beach Bar. Feet in the sand, something cold to drink, and the kids chasing the last waves.
Not Ready to Head Home?
Even though you could easily spend weeks lingering in Tuscany, we simply weren't ready to go home yet.
Luckily, we had a little more time — so why not keep going?
Livorno is just around the corner and makes it incredibly easy to turn your Tuscan road trip into the next adventure.
So instead of packing up and driving all the way back to Germany, we booked a ferry, drove onto the boat, and set sail for Corsica…
It felt like the perfect way to end this chapter of our trip.
So, if you are planning a trip to Tuscany, remember the
Costa degli Etruschi.And wherever you go next, don't forget to be where your feet are.
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